Business of Fashion’s recent article, H&M Knows Its AI Models Will Be Controversial, rightly underscores the fashion industry’s growing tensions with artificial intelligence. AI-generated brand imagery has been met with both curiosity and criticism, with some arguing it erases human artistry, creative and authenticity. Yet, as we dissect this issue, it becomes clear that H&M’s approach to AI-generated models, though contentious, might be a necessary catalyst for responsible innovation.

The Criticisms

The use of AI-generated models raises valid ethical concerns, particularly regarding authenticity, representation, and labor rights. Consumers are quick to call out campaigns that feel disingenuous or disconnected from reality—a sentiment brands like Mango have already faced in their AI experimentation. Many fear that relying on AI imagery diminishes opportunities for real human models and creatives, replacing them with digital stand-ins that lack the lived experience and emotional depth of their human counterparts.

Further, the conversation around Name, Image, and Likeness (NIL) rights is growing louder. If brands create AI models inspired by real people, how are these individuals compensated or credited? As AI tools become more sophisticated, brands risk using AI-generated faces that bear unsettling resemblances to real models without proper consent. The industry is standing at the precipice of a major ethical reckoning.

H&M’s Transparent Approach

Where H&M stands apart, however, is in its transparency. Unlike past AI controversies that emerged from opaque decision-making, H&M is openly acknowledging its use of AI models, addressing the inevitable criticism head-on. This openness presents an opportunity: rather than rejecting AI outright, the industry can use H&M’s approach to establish clearer ethical guidelines. By setting a precedent for responsible AI usage, H&M may actually push the industry toward greater accountability in digital modeling and NIL rights.

At the same time, H&M recognizes that it does not yet have all the answers. As Business of Fashion points out, the company is still navigating the broader implications of its AI approach, particularly regarding the ripple effects on other industry professionals. Beyond models, the use of AI-generated imagery could significantly impact photographers, makeup artists, hair stylists, and wardrobe stylists, whose roles could be diminished if brands opt for AI-generated content over traditional shoots. This acknowledgment is crucial, as it highlights the need for ongoing dialogue and innovation that ensures AI becomes a tool for enhancing creative work rather than erasing it.

The Case for Digital Twins

Perhaps the most intriguing aspect of this shift is the potential benefit for models themselves. Instead of being replaced by AI, models could actively license their likenesses as Digital Twins, allowing them to work across multiple campaigns, locations, competitors, simultaneously. Imagine a world where models earn passive income from AI-rendered versions of themselves—a reality already being explored in the influencer and entertainment industries. If regulated correctly, AI modeling could become an asset rather than a threat to traditional modeling careers.

H&M’s decision to grant models ownership over their Digital Twins is a particularly notable step in ensuring ethical AI adoption. According to the company, models will retain the rights to their digital likenesses, allowing them to license their AI avatars to other brands—even H&M’s competitors. This move could redefine how models manage their careers, offering them unprecedented control over their image while expanding their earning potential beyond traditional bookings.

The Future of AI in Fashion

So, what does this mean for the future of AI in fashion? Will brands commit to transparency, or will we see more covert attempts to replace human talent? If more brands follow suit, could this model could serve as a blueprint for a future where AI supports, rather than supplants, human talent? And perhaps the biggest question of all: can AI ever truly replicate the soul of fashion, or will it forever be confined to the realm of polished, synthetic perfection?

Only time will tell, but one thing is certain—H&M’s foray into AI modeling is just the beginning of a much larger industry shift.